ORCHID Q&A

General

Question:
I am just starting to grow orchids—should I focus on one genus, or try to grow lots of different types?

Answer:
In my opinion, I think one of the main reasons people are attracted to orchids is the amazing variety. While many growers like to specialize in one genus, learning as much as possible about its culture and its allied hybrids, most add further interest by acquiring addition species of other genera. To build a diversified collection, is challenging and requires finding microclimates in your growing area and different care for many of them which can be a challenge. So, I would suggest focusing mostly on one genus, as that allows you to learn how to grow that to perfection, and it is a quite manageable. But be open to bringing other genera in that can flourish in your growing conditions.

Question:
How much water do I put on my plants when I water them?

Answer:
When you water your plants, water them well. This means you should fill the pot several times with water. If you grow them in the house, put the pot in the sink and let the water flow through the pot for several seconds. Water all around the pot so that it all the bark gets wet. Do not put pots in a bucket of water to soak unless you put fresh water in the pot for every orchid. You do not want to spread diseases between orchids.

Question:
My water is very hard. Can I use salt-softened water on my orchids?

Answer:
No, the conventional type of home water softener is not safe to use for orchids. It merely removes calcium and magnesium from the water and replaces them with sodium that is even more harmful. You can use distilled water or collect rainwater. If you must use the salt-softened water, you will need to leach your orchids to get rid of the salt residue. You could do that by using the distilled water. You would do this by pouring the distilled water copiously through the pot to get rid of the salt build-up. You should do this at least once a month.

Question:
Should I remove the wilted flowers on my orchid plant?

Answer:
Once a flower is gone, it should be removed form the plant. Not only are they unsightly, but they can be attached by botrytis that can be spread to your good flowers.

Phalaenopsis

Question:
Are phalaenopsis hard to grow, will they grow in my house with my African violets?

Answer:
They are excellent houseplants!

Question:
I have recently purchased by first phalaenopsis plant. Will a northern kitchen window provide adequate light?

Answer:
You should be able to grow a phalaenopsis in any window except a northern one. Give it some light shading from the sun.

Question:
The leaves on my phalaenopsis have become soft and droopy. I grow them at 65oF during the night and up to 85oF during the day. What is wrong?

Answer:
You have probably overwatered or underfed your plant. Sometimes during the winter months people are inclined to water more frequently than necessary. Because of this, the roots at the bottom of the pot will rot. Phalaenopsis like constant moisture, but they must have good aeration and drainage at all times.

Cattleya

Question:
The foliage of my cattleya that I am growing in my home is yellowing. What should I do?

Answer:
Causes can be too much sunlight, overwatering, old potting mix, and poor drainage. But it is natural for most cattleyas to shed anywhere from one to four leaves each year. The leaf turns yellow and then brown before dropping off the plant. However, it is not natural for a large number of leaves to turn yellow at one time and drop off. Note: under home culture, the foliage from spring to fall should range in shades from medium to light green. From late fall to winter (in the north), it will be a slightly deeper green. Deep green foliage all year indicates a lack of sunlight.

Question:
The leaves and pseudobulbs on my cattleya are shriveling. I grow it on my windowsill. What is happening.

Answer:
The causes can be under-watering if your roots are healthy. It can also be caused by over-watering If the roots are rotted. Sometimes it can be caused by a hot room with low humidity. Checking the roots that will help you decide about your watering and if the plant needs repotting. Placing orchids on humidity trays (trays with stones and water, using the stones to keep the bottom of the pot out of the water) can help with low humidity problems.

Question:
My cattleya, grown on my windowsill, is not forming sheaths or buds. What is wrong?

Answer:
There can many possible causes for this, but the most common is a lack of sufficient sunlight. Check the leaf color of your orchid and if it is dark green, then you definitely need more light. Also, high night temperatures (the temperature should be below 70oF) can be a problem. 

Cymbidiums

Question:
I want to try growing cymbidiums. Can you give me hints to be successful?

Answer:
Cymbidiums can be grown wherever warm days and cool nights naturally occur. Light is the most important factor in successful flowering of cymbidiums. Give the plants sufficient light so the foliage is greenish-yellow. When they flower, place them in a heavily shaded area and the blooms will last longer and you will get clearer colors. They need lots of water during the active growing season, so the potting mix is on the wet-side. Cymbidiums can tolerate a wide range of temperatures and can withstand temperatures in the 80s and 90s during the day. They will even withstand several degrees of frost, although the flower spikes are apt to be injured by these low temperatures.

Question:
How much sun should a cymbidium have?

Answer:
Cymbidiums will take strong sun except during midsummer in hot valleys, when they need filtered sunlight at midday. As a rule of thumb, except when in flower, it is better to give a cymbidium too much sun rather than too little.

Question:
How do I care for my cymbidiums during winter in a cold area?

Answer:
Cymbidiums in pots require about the same care as any houseplant, but on the cool side. During the winter, it should be moved into a bright area that is not too warm, between 50oF to 60oF at night.

Question:
Will cymbidiums do well in a hot climate?

Answer:
Choose temperature tolerant Cymbidiums that perform well in a temperature range of 95oF to 45oF and generally do not require a wide temperature variation between day and night to initiate spikes. Cymbidium ensifolium and Cymbidium dayanum are amongst the most heat-tolerant.

Paphiopedilums 

Question:
What temperatures do you recommend for paphiopedilums?

Answer:
Paphs grow and flower well with a minimum night temperature of about 58oF to 60oF. If too high night temperatures are maintained, many varieties will keep growing, but not flower. Optimum day temperatures are into the 70s and low 80s. 

Question:
Are there paphiopedilums I can grow if I am growing them indoors and cannot get the night- time temperatures to drop.

Answer:
Yes, the mottled leave warm-growing species and hybrids that flower throughout the year can do well without the night-time temperature drop.